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How Long Do Betta Fish Live?

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Male and female betta fish live for 2-4 years on average in captivity. How long a betta fish will live as a pet depends on a variety of factors. The two most important being how old a betta is when you get him or her, and how they are cared for.

Betta Life Span Graph

If possible, purchase a betta from a passionate local or online breeder. These bettas should have received better care from fry to adulthood and may have improved genetics. For many people, however, that’s not an option and the easiest location is a pet store chain.

Some big box pet stores have improved their betta’s conditions and level of care but it can vary by location significantly. I have seen some with bettas in community tanks, others with sororities, and some in large divided tanks. It’s still very difficult to know how their suppliers have handled their fish and how much stress they have undergone.

Bettas being sold with fully developed fins are typically around 6-12 months old for males and females. Females may be on the lower end because they reach fin maturity quicker. Baby bettas are between 4-8 weeks old.

What is the oldest betta?

The oldest betta ever recorded was 10 years old. With the right genetics, environment, and care from the onset of a betta’s life, they can live up to 6 or 7 years or more. Many owners have reported life spans of 8 years, but that’s not realistic for every betta.

Because there are so many myths about the proper care for this species in captivity, their life spans are drastically reduced and almost always cut in half. Bettas tend to be a first-time fish keepers choice (or gift) because of their level of care, resilience and beauty. This often leads to betta keeping before doing the proper research on how to care for them.

How long do betta fish live in the wild?

Betta fish typically live to 2 years old in the wild. In captivity they live longer because of improved care, food availability, and less dangers.

How long do betta fish live in a bowl?

A betta fish’s life span will almost always be significantly reduced if you house them in unfiltered and unheated bowls. This is especially true if they are under 2 gallons in size and proper maintenance is not adhered to. Stick to eating cereal out of bowls, not housing fish in them!

Most pet stores display betta fish in small plastic cups because of their aggression and territorial nature. While it’s not an excuse, they often don’t allocate the proper space it would take to set up large divided tanks for their betta inventory.

Small cups and bowls are temporary habitats since cohabitation is tricky with females and other fish, and not possible with males. Also, just because pet stores sell small tanks and bowls (1 gallon) this is not the correct habitat for them.

Buy a healthy betta fish

It’s always unclear how a betta has been cared for when coming from suppliers and unknown breeders. This means a betta may have been subjected to cramped environments, no dividers, diseases, and parasites which can shorten their life span.

Getting a healthy betta from the start is a key factor in how long they will live. Healthy betta fish will have bright coloring (males), no scale or fin damage, and be active and feisty upon your presence.

Improve how long your betta fish will live

Getting back to the most important elements in a betta’s life expectancy, there are certain things you can do to help your betta fish live longer.

Feed the right food

Provide rich and abundant food that’s high in protein and fiber. Most betta fish won’t even touch regular tropical fish flakes because this food is inadequate for their needs. While a high quality betta pellet is a great start, you should also consider incorporating freeze-dried, frozen, or live bloodworms and brine shrimp to really get all of the nutrients they need.

Betta fish have abundant access to prey in the wild and are active carnivores (insectivores to be exact). You need to replicate that same environment in captivity as much as possible, and that means nutrition too. Avoid overfeeding them, because that can lead to complications too.

Fluval Spec 5 Gallon

Provide the right habitat

The recommended habitat size for a betta fish is 5 gallons, with a minimum recommended tank size of 2.5 gallons. They also need lots of spaces to hide and rest to feel safe. Make sure your tank has a top on it too because betta fish are jumpers. They will often leap right out of an uncovered habitat – leading to their death.

Water quality is super important

Do not use distilled water because it has been stripped of the essential nutrients and minerals that betta fish need to be healthy.

Use tap water or spring water if your tap water is not suitable. Make sure to use a water conditioner to make the water safe for a betta. A conditioner removes harmful things like chlorine, heavy metals, and ammonia. If buying spring water is too expensive or not an option you can also use a filtration unit like a Brita for water changes and cycling.

Smaller tanks will also require more frequent cleanings because of their size – it’s simple math! A 1 gallon would require daily partial water changes while maintaining a constant temperature. This is extremely hard to do and leads to constant stress on a betta.

Ammonia builds up as your betta excretes waste into the water and as uneaten food and live plants break down. Poor water quality can stress and harm your betta very quickly. It can even lead to death from prolonged exposure. Keep your betta fish’s tank clean and consider using a filter to reduce ammonia, nitrites, and nitrites.

Bettas need tropical water temperatures

Betta fish are tropical fish and require a steady warm water temperature in the range of 76-81 degrees Fahrenheit. To maintain this temperature you’ll likely need to purchase a small (~25 watt) heater with a built in thermostat. This will help to keep the tank’s water temperature consistent.

Avoid abrupt temperature changes and avoid colder temperatures at all costs. Extended time in temperatures colder than recommended (especially less than 68 degrees) can stress a betta’s natural immune system and lead to inactivity, refusal to eat, and susceptibility to illness and disease.

Betta knowledge and life span

If you already knew the information above, then good for you! If not, then you’ve got some work to do and you should definitely read the full betta care guide. With the right knowledge and passion, you can expect your betta fish to live for 2-3 years.

Some betta fish will always be more resilient than others (the strong survive). While you can reverse some of the damage from living in small cups and coming from an uncertain past, you may never know the full story of their care or lineage. If your betta fish lives a year or two from the time of purchase, you have likely still been a good fish mom or dad.

About the author

Hey, I'm Bryan(founder of bettafish.org) and I’ve been caring for and keeping betta fish for over 9 years. I’d like to extend you a warm welcome to the best community and informational place to learn all about this wonderful tropical, freshwater fish.

45 thoughts on “How Long Do Betta Fish Live?”

  1. I have two Bettas and a divided 2.5 gallon tank. Is there a way to use an automatic Betta feeder where both fish can be fed daily?

    • I’d recommend a larger tank if you have two betta’s. Ideally, a 10 gallon divided tank so each fish has 5 gallons on each side. This would give you more tank room to set up 2 automatic daily feeders. I’m not sure how you would use only one as distribution would probably be inconsistent at the middle of the divider – falling on each side.

    • You could file and sand the divider a fraction lower for the food to be able to pass thru but not the fish, as a last resort also—it can’t be a sharp edge though so it might take some minimal thought.

    • I think my beta is dying. I thought he had swim bladder disease at first. I have made many changes but nothing is working. He is lying on the bottom of the tank, struggles to swim to the top for food. I raised his water temp to 80 degrees, stopped feeding him fish pellets, now feeding him peas. He is thinner and losing his color. I have had him 2 years, got him out of a centerpiece from a wedding. Tank is clean and filtered, spring water only. Anything else I can do?

      • Sorry to hear that your betta isn’t doing too well. It could be age, however, you should consider a leaf hammock or lowering the tank’s water to help him be able to get to the surface easier for air, and consider adding an air pump to oxygenate the water if you have one. Make sure you water is clean, try performing a 25% water change daily for 4-7 days and see if things improve. Aquarium salt may also help for stress or swelling and slime coat activation.

    • I just want to say I cannot believe I have had my Betta named Red Bull for 9 years I repeat 9 years!!!He has lived in a 1/2 gallon size fish bowl!I feed him when I remember every 3 or 4 days My kitties drink out of his home and never try to eat him.I have 4 by the way He has 2 small peace Lilly plants that float and grow in his environment and he has grown some sort of flower shape on his tail fin and like a turkey waddle under his chin .He is active and in great shape and beautiful and amazing and I love him and I have moved him in winter and summer jiggling around in my truck when I moved several times .I think he is 1 in a million Love your Betta.Laurie Feb 10 2019

  2. Yay, I’m doing it right! According to the Quick Tips inset, at least…😉
    This is my first experience with bettas, I have only raised cichlids — I am sooooo impressed with these fish! So much personality…I am quite smitten.
    I just set up a 10 gal planted tank for a breeding pair that currently live in a 4 gal. After many attempts, they finally have viable offspring! I’m a grandma!
    I also just purchased a brine shrimp breeding setup to hopefully provide nutritious live food. (The adults LOVE the mosquitos that I catch for them! — repleat with MY blood, lol.)
    I am wary about moving them while their fry are still growing, but they have started a new nest and are laying more eggs. I would leave them where they are, but algae has taken over, the filter is cavatating (which means it isn’t sucking the fry into it…) just not wild about the precariousness of this tank and think a 10 gal will be easier to control.
    Thoughts or suggestions??
    Thank you!

    • That’s awesome Barbara, aren’t betta fish the best? Sounds like you’re doing an excellent job and yes the 10g would be easier to control, but not at the expense of potentially disrupting things if that’s what you’re worried about? If everyone seems healthy, a transfer attempt is probably not too risky though.

    • I took the light away from my beta tank. It get enough natural light. Haven’t had an algae problem since.

      • I am so happy to have found this site! “Are You Dead Yet” has just turned three years old. He is beautiful and I regret all the mistakes I made when starting out with Bettas. I can’t stress enough the importance of learning about the hobby before making that first purchase. I just wanted to stop in and say, thanks for this site!! I often read and thought it would be nice to say, Thank you!

  3. Hi, Bryan,
    There is so much conflicting advice out there, I just don’t know who to turn to anymore. I have a beautiful, sweet little betta who I love more than anything. He is very affectionate, and loves me right back. We have such a bond, and I want to ensure he has the best and longest life he possibly can. For weeks now, he has had trouble staying down, and although swimming actively, eventually floats right back up to the surface. He has always preferred to spend most of his time at the top, but he doesn’t appear to have much of a choice these days. He’s still his sweet, happy and social self, but when I see him float onto his side, I get nervous. Initially it was worse, and I fasted him 3 days and then fed him 1/4 pea. Since then, he’s been himself again, although as I described above. Can you advise me on water changes and feeding? He’s currently in what is technically a 3g bowl that fits a full 2.5 gallons of water, with the addition of his marbles and heater. The temperature remains at a steady 78 degrees. The lovely and experienced fish keepers at my LFS advised that any filter would be too strong for that amount of water, so just to make sure his water changes are good. A 25% weekly water change was recommended. Are you in agreeance? I am feeding him 2 tiny pellets twice a day, morning and night. Today, he had thawed frozen daphnia instead. I never had any problems before I tried bloodworms, so I’ll never give him those agains. Any advice? I should note he’s a doubletail, and I’ve read they are prone to such issues. Thank you in advance! This was a very long question.

    • Hi Shannon, yes there truly is which is why I try my best to continue educating and responding to questions like yours. The bloodworms could have initially caused the issue and maybe some level of swim bladder disorder which on occasion may never fully heal. I have a female betta who is about 4 years old who got SBD and now she sinks like a rock as soon as she stops swimming ever since. I have a lot of leaf hammocks and other debris at the surface for her to rest on and keep the tank’s water low so she can get to the surface for air. The care you’ve outlined here sounds pretty spot-on and you’re doing everything you should be. I hope it’s not the case and the swim bladder regulating returns for your betta, but yes they are prone to the issue more than the other betta varieties.

  4. This is our 2nd beta. First one had a lot of personality. This one is cupcake 2. Took some time. But now I guess comfortable has a leaf that it lays on a lot of the day. When you speak or tap the tank come up to say hello. I have to clean tank very frequently.

  5. My Archie is 3 years old and I love him more than ANYTHING! He has helped me so much with my depression. He is smart and funny AF!!! GREAT information Bryan. I just love this website!

  6. I have two bettas in small bowls, have had them for a year and they don’t look very good. They eat but one especially is sick. He lays on his side and can’t upright himself. The other one is limited also but not quite as bad. I tried the pea thing but they didn’t eat it. I thought when I bought them that they could be in a bowl but since then I’ve learned that they need more room and a heater. I’m not really able to spend a lot of money on them. Is there anything I can do to help them that doesn’t cost a lot?

    • If you are going to keep them healthy in the meantime, you should at the minimum do daily 10-20% water changes in the bowls. In such a small habitat, their life span is usually reduced.

  7. Hi! I’m in set up mode and was hoping you could help. What exactly is Betta Water? I saw it in shops being sold in what look like Deerpark water bottles. I was going to use tap water with a conditioner but then I bought the heater (Bettatherm Mini Size Betta Bowl Heater) and it says use Only with Betta Water. Thank you for your help!

    • It’s nothing more than spring water really, maybe with some added stress coating for bettas depending on the brand. You are correct, all you need is tap water with a conditioner (as long as your tap water is okay).

  8. Hi how can I keep the bottom of the tank clean from wasted food? I have a small algae eater called an otto sucker catfish. But he doesn’t eat food on the bottom just on rocks, sides of the tank. I have two baby girl Betta fish in a 5 gal. Tank?

  9. I have my betta in distilled water. Can I just change out to treated tap water or is there a process? I have had Brawny for about 2 years and want to have him around for a lot longer. He is in a 2.5-gallon tank with a filter. Looks like I need to add a heater too though.

    • You can do a 100% water change, add the treated and conditioned tap water, and then acclimate Brawny back into the tank. Alternatively, you can slowly just do water changes, say 25-50% removal of the current tank water and add back in the new conditioned tap water. This option is easier and should reduce potential stress.

  10. Very informative thank you. I learn something new all the time on my Bettas. One thing I was wanting to ask is? If my pH is high and nitrates but other tests good what do I do ? To do better? I have 6 Bettas 5 gallon tanks. Plus one 10 gallon.

    • Hi Cindy, if you have high pH tap water, I would recommend using spring water instead, although that may get expensive if you have that many tanks. You can also add a lot of live plants or real driftwood can help, or lastly, they do have products that lower pH that you can find online or at your local pet store.

  11. I recently bought a 5.5-gallon tank for my betta male, has two caves to hide in and has plenty of plants. lately, I been noticing my betta just sitting in the corners in his tank and I would sometimes see him swim around the tank in circles… should I be concern? or is that normal betta fish behavior? and any recommendations to what I should do?

  12. I have a square glass 2.7 gallon tank and I read here that I really should not attach the filter that came with this tank since it is smaller than 3 gallons, so I have not yet. I thought though that in order for you to have a heater in the water, you need a filter so the temperature is mixed and one part of the tank doesn’t get too warm? I am confused about that. Would you clarify if I have a heater, then I must have a filter or no?

    • You could use the filter if you can slow the water coming into the tank enough, or you can use a sponge-filter setup as well which produces almost no current. For your primary question, it should only matter more in larger tanks where a heater might be in one area of the tank and not be able to adequately disperse to the rest of the tank. In a 2.7-gallon I don’t see that being an issue.

  13. Hello! I am an intermediately experienced betta owner, however, this is my first try with a sorority tank. When I purchased my girls, the store only had 2 baby girls so I got them and put them in their 10 gal tank together and it’s been about 3 or 4 weeks and they are doing amazing together! Everywhere I’ve read says to have a minimum of 3 females in a sorority tank. Georgia (who was already bigger) has grown to about twice the size of Skye and I’m worried if I add another fish Skye may become a target. I have another female, Ruby, who has been in a 3 gallon tank alone with her snail for about a year or so and thought about adding her to the sorority tank, but I’m a little leary of how that may turn out. Do you think by her being alone for so long, this would be asking for trouble? Ruby and GA are veiltails, and I think Skye may be crowntail, but she’s still pretty small.
    Again it’s only a 10-gal, but it’s heavily decorated with plants, a lounger, a cave, and a shell. In their current conditions they are all fairly docile. I should note also, that Ruby was in with another fish when I first got her and she kept her distance, but he kept chasing her and nipped a fin so I removed her immediately. Any advice would be so helpful!

    • It’s always tough for me to answer this type of question but I will give you some general advice so you can make and educated decision and plan of action. First, 10-gallons would be the minimum size for a sorority, and a 20-gallon long tank would be best. All betta personalities are different which complicates advice. I’m happy to hear the first two are doing well. It’s best to pick females that are of the same size and age if possible. With that said, no I wouldn’t place Ruby in there with them. Ideally, you’d have 4 maybe 5 females in this 10-gallon tank and no more (again the 20-gallon long would be better). Also be very careful buying baby bettas labeled females from fish stores because sometimes they are mis-labeled and turn out to be males. Make sure you know how to identify the sex of them, especially if one turns out to be a male so you can remove it. I would get at least two more baby bettas who are roughly the same size as GA and Skye in varying colors if possible and introduce them sooner rather than later. Sororities can be tough…so always have a backup plan to remove one if they are just too aggressive for the pack.

  14. Hello! I just got a beautiful male Betta for my toddlers to watch. I have had Bettas in the past, but this one seems obsessed with a seashell (properly cleaned and aquarium safe) – he displays in front of it and puffs up. Should I remove the seashell? I don’t want him stressed all the time being territorial. Or is this actually enhancing his environment? He’s in a 5 gallon Fluval Chi with lots of rocks, sand, a cave, and anya for hiding. Thanks! Love your website 🙂

    • Has he calmed down around it yet? Some flaring behavior is beneficial, yes, but prolonged aggression can potentially cause too much stress. Is it a very bright color?

  15. I breed bettas as well as run a fish rescue program. I have over the last two years taken in 3 very old bettas. One past away at 10 another at 11 and i still have an oldest at 13 years of age. He isnt very active but he thrives in a 10g with plants. And i’ll tell ya he is never slow to get his food. Ive had a couple people joke that i run a betta retirement centre.

    • That’s amazing and definitely some of the oldest bettas I’ve heard of others caring for. A betta retirement community hahaa that’s funny.

  16. Is it alright for my male beta to lay down in the tank he came in because it is small environment

    • Resting in the temporary housing is fine, but the betta needs to be acclimated to a new permanent habitat.

  17. I have come to realize something… having had beta fish years ago… I now have five who are in condo’s for now, and moving to their luxury mansion next month… anyway, in the mean time, I’ve learned a lot by observing, and interacting with my betas…

    I think some things about betas needs to be changed… first off, no beta’s are not out for blood(no pun intended), all the time, every moment of the day… that if you have other betas in separate bowls, tanks etc., but are next to each other… they will as I call it “display” to one another… they are like the bullies on the block showing how tough they are by displaying their gorgeous long fins…

    It’s stupid to think that the males are only thinking of this… beta’s are smart indeed. Which means they need visual stimulation daily… if their next bowl over beta male can share “display” time with one another great! Because what they do when they get tired, or, board of displaying is, to simply take a short power nap… it’s true watch your beta and learn! They are just like other intelligent animals, with displaying as one of their hardwired behaviors… hey he displays to show off to the guys, and to attract a female!!!… get it?!… no a beta doesn’t want to be kept in a cup alone!!!… never ever!!!… at least in some pet shop displays, they can see each other… but!!! Beta get bored seeing the same guy next door… so rotate your beta if you have more then one… it’s something new, that will excite them, and get them to want to display once again… these fish enjoy displaying… the pet betas you see, would be so terribly board out of their minds with no one to display to, I think they would go insane to be honest… it’s basic observation people… don’t think that we are the only intelligent beings on this planet… some of the smallest beings can be just as intelligent… let your beta have any many exciting, new experiences… amusements, adventures(from the tank)… change their toys, change around the caves, and plants, and plastic caves, etc. So, he will find this interesting, and allow him to feel like he’s exploring some place new… it’s simply just think about what you would consider interesting, and exciting if you were a beta fish!!! They don’t ask for much from us really… they do recognize you, and they do recognize what you say, or, show them… like the bottle of food pellets they see every day… they know it’s breakfast, or, dinner when they see the bottle… I taught my beta to come to me on command for their meals when I tap my finger on the rim of their bowl… don’t mind the bowl reference they move from their “condos”, to the mansion next month… I have the list of everything I need to buy for the big move, and am just as excited as my fish will be, once they get to move in!… : )

    I make sure to rotate the five of them, so, each one gets a few days to spend playing with mommy… meaning their bowl is nearest to me, and I play hide and seek with them… or, pretend to scratch their tummies… I hold out the palm of my hand for them to pretend to sit on… as it’s as close as they will get to do this…. After all I can’t fit in their bowls…lol

    Make your beta’s days eventful, adventuress, fun, and you will laugh, and love your little beta boy even more then you thought you could, just cause he’s a fish, doesn’t mean there isn’t a bond of affection you can build with your little beta buddy… : )

    Mine look forward to being with me, as much as I am with them… print different backgrounds to tape to the tank each day… etc… there are so many simple, easy things you can create, just use your imagination… your beta will love you for it!… : )

    • If I am remembering correctly, the cups in the stores, the way they are designed and curved actually limit or prevent each betta from seeing each other very clearly. You are correct in that providing a stimulating and varied environment is excellent to keep your fish from being bored. Do be careful, however, in allowing them to see each other constantly like that because if non-stop flaring happens it can be very stressful. For this reason I wouldn’t recommend them being next to each permanently like that, but instead as an enrichment exercise for a 5 minutes or so.

  18. Hi, I just bought my new Betta ( half moon ) . When I bought it, it was metalic bluish grey with red stripes along the fins and tails . After I put it in the tank what I find is it’s colour is peacock blue and barely visible red . Anyway it’s very active, doesn’t hide doesn’t go back side of the tank . Always comes to check out if anyone comes closer . My previous one wasn’t as active as this one and I used to feed that 2x a day 3 live bloodworm . But this one is totally different, I feed him 3 times with 4 bloodworms and yet it acts like it’s still hungry . If I give him 1 more he’ll devour immediately, I mean like vaccum cleaner it cleans all the works in a blink . Should I feed more ?

    • Hi Ranjan, (03/14/23) your post is from 06/02/2022. Hello, I’m Mari; I’m surprised Bryan didn’t comment. It is best not to feed you betta 3 times a day, betta’s stomach is very very small. Twice per day is recommended and have the beta fast one day a Wk like for example; don’t feed him on Sundays. Resume feeding on Monday.
      Always give a variety of food to your betta to keep him happy and healthy.

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